For the serious woodworker, the art of a project doesn’t begin with a saw or a chisel—it begins with the wood itself. The choice of lumber dictates everything: the project’s strength, its appearance, how it behaves during construction, and how it will last over time. Yet, for many, the world of wood species can be overwhelming, filled with confusing terminology and endless options.
The first step to mastering your material is understanding the fundamental difference between hardwoods vs. softwoods. This distinction is not based on actual hardness but on a botanical classification. Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (angiosperms), which have broad leaves and typically lose them in the fall. Softwoods come from coniferous trees (gymnosperms), which have needles and cones and remain green year-round. While this botanical rule has exceptions (e.g., the soft hardwood, balsa; or the hard softwood, yew), it is the primary way to categorize lumber.
Beyond the botanical definition, there are practical differences that matter to woodworkers. Hardwoods generally grow more slowly, making them denser, stronger, and more durable. Softwoods grow faster, are more readily available, and are typically easier to work with.
This ultimate guide will serve as your essential reference to the world of woodworking lumber. We’ll explore the characteristics of the most popular hardwoods and softwoods, discuss their best uses, and provide a comprehensive buying guide to help you choose the perfect material for your next project.
The Fundamental Difference: Hardwoods vs. Softwoods
Before we dive into specific species, let’s clarify the key differences that impact your projects.
- Botanical Origin: As mentioned, hardwoods come from broadleaf, deciduous trees, while softwoods come from needle-bearing conifers.
- Density and Weight: Hardwoods are generally denser and heavier. Their complex cellular structure, with pores or vessels for nutrient transport, makes them more compact. Softwoods have a simpler, less dense cellular structure.
- Durability: Because of their density, hardwoods are typically more resistant to scratches, dents, and wear, making them ideal for furniture, flooring, and cabinetry. Softwoods are softer and more prone to damage.
- Workability: Softwoods are generally easier to cut, sand, and shape with both hand and power tools. Hardwoods require sharper blades and more effort due to their density.
- Price and Availability: Softwoods grow faster and are therefore more widely available and less expensive. Hardwoods, with their slower growth cycle, are typically more costly.
It is crucial to remember that these are general rules. Some softwoods like Douglas Fir are incredibly strong, while some hardwoods like Poplar are quite soft. The best way to know a wood’s true hardness is to consult its Janka hardness rating, which measures its resistance to denting.
Popular Hardwood Species for Woodworking
Hardwoods are prized for their beauty, durability, and strength. They are the go-to choice for fine furniture, decorative pieces, and anything that needs to last for generations.
1. Oak (White and Red)
- Appearance: Known for its prominent, open grain pattern and distinct ray fleck patterns (especially in quartersawn cuts). Red Oak has a reddish hue, while White Oak is a light tan to brown.
- Properties: Very hard and durable with a Janka hardness of around 1,290 for Red Oak and 1,360 for White Oak. It is stable and resistant to warping. White Oak is particularly resistant to water due to its closed cell structure.
- Workability: Works well with both hand and power tools but can be prone to splintering if tools aren’t sharp. Its open grain requires a grain filler for a truly smooth finish.
- Best for: Cabinetry, furniture, flooring, and any project that requires strength and durability. White Oak’s water resistance makes it a top choice for outdoor furniture and boatbuilding.
2. Maple (Hard and Soft)
- Appearance: Ranges from creamy white to a light reddish-brown. It has a fine, uniform grain pattern, making it a favorite for a clean, modern look. Figured maple varieties like Bird’s Eye, Curly, and Quilted are highly sought after for decorative work.
- Properties: Hard Maple is one of the hardest domestic hardwoods (Janka hardness of 1,450), making it exceptionally durable. Soft Maple is still a hardwood but is easier to work with.
- Workability: Easy to work with tools but can be difficult to stain evenly, often leading to a blotchy appearance. This is why it is often finished with a clear coat or used for projects that will be painted.
- Best for: Butcher blocks, cutting boards, tabletops, flooring, musical instruments, and high-wear furniture where durability is a priority.
3. Cherry
- Appearance: Features a rich, reddish-brown color that darkens to a beautiful, deep red with age and exposure to light. It has a fine, straight, and smooth grain, often with subtle flecks or small gum pockets that add character.
- Properties: A medium-density hardwood (Janka hardness of 995) that is a joy to work with. It is stable and resists warping.
- Workability: It is considered one of the most pleasant hardwoods to work with, as it cuts, machines, and sands beautifully. It takes a finish exceptionally well.
- Best for: Fine furniture, cabinets, millwork, and decorative items where its classic elegance and beautiful aging properties can be highlighted.
4. Walnut
- Appearance: Celebrated for its deep, rich chocolate-brown heartwood and creamy white sapwood. It has a beautiful, often swirling grain pattern that creates a stunning visual effect.
- Properties: A durable, medium-density hardwood (Janka hardness of 1,010) that is very stable. It is one of the most sought-after and expensive domestic hardwoods.
- Workability: Works very well with all tools, from hand planes to routers. It takes finishes beautifully, with a clear coat often used to bring out its natural color and grain.
- Best for: High-end furniture, fine cabinetry, decorative boxes, and accents where its luxurious appearance and rich color can be the centerpiece of the design.
5. Poplar
- Appearance: Has a creamy white to greenish color, sometimes with streaks of purple, blue, or black. It has a straight, uniform grain.
- Properties: Despite being botanically a hardwood, Poplar is one of the softest (Janka hardness of 540), making it a “utility wood.”
- Workability: Very easy to cut, sand, and shape. However, its softness means it can dent easily and it does not hold a sharp edge well. It’s often difficult to stain evenly.
- Best for: Painted furniture, drawer boxes, internal cabinet frames, and other applications where a strong but easily workable, inexpensive wood is needed and the final appearance will be painted or hidden.
Popular Softwood Species for Woodworking
Softwoods are a great choice for a wide variety of projects, especially those where budget, availability, and ease of use are priorities.
1. Pine (White, Yellow, and Ponderosa)
- Appearance: Light-colored, ranging from nearly white to a pale yellow or light brown. It often features prominent knots that can add a rustic, “country” charm.
- Properties: A very soft wood (Janka hardness ranges from 380 for White Pine to 690 for Southern Yellow Pine). It is lightweight and easy to handle.
- Workability: Incredibly easy to work with, making it a favorite for beginners. It’s easy to cut, nail, and screw. However, knots can be hard and may be prone to cracking.
- Best for: Rustic or farmhouse-style furniture, shelving, simple cabinets, and any project where a budget-friendly, easy-to-work-with material is needed.
2. Cedar
- Appearance: A reddish-brown color with a beautiful, straight grain. It has a very distinctive, pleasant aroma from its natural oils.
- Properties: A soft and lightweight wood (Janka hardness of 350). Its natural oils make it highly resistant to rot, decay, and insects.
- Workability: Easy to work with, but its softness means it can dent and scratch easily.
- Best for: Outdoor furniture, decks, fences, and anything exposed to the elements. Its pleasant aroma also makes it a top choice for closet and chest linings to repel moths and insects.
3. Douglas Fir
- Appearance: Has a light, yellowish-brown color with a prominent, straight grain. The grain lines are often distinct, with a high contrast between early and late wood.
- Properties: While classified as a softwood, Douglas Fir is known for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio (Janka hardness of 660). It is very stiff and stable.
- Workability: Easy to work with and machines well. Its stiffness can make it a bit more difficult to work with by hand than softer pines.
- Best for: Construction framing, large-scale projects like pergolas or decks, and certain types of furniture that require a strong, straight-grained wood.
Lumber Buying Guide: How to Select the Right Wood (Hardwoods vs. Softwoods)
Choosing the right species is only half the battle. Knowing how to select the best individual boards is crucial for a successful project.
1. Know Your Project and Your Budget
- Start with a plan. Before you go to the lumberyard, know what you’re building and how much wood you need. This helps you avoid getting overwhelmed.
- Match the wood to the purpose. Don’t use a soft, expensive wood for a dining table or a knotty pine for a formal cabinet. The wood’s properties must match the project’s demands.
2. Understand Lumber Grades
Lumber is sorted into grades that indicate its quality and the number of defects (knots, cracks, etc.).
- Hardwood Grades (FAS, Select, Common):
- FAS (Firsts and Seconds): The highest grade, offering the longest and widest boards with minimal defects. This is furniture-grade lumber and is the most expensive.
- Select: Similar to FAS but allows slightly smaller boards and a few minor defects.
- Common (No. 1 Common, No. 2 Common): Contains more defects but is perfect for cutting into smaller, clear pieces for things like cabinet frames or drawers. It’s a great choice for saving money.
- Softwood Grades (Select Structural, No. 1, No. 2, etc.): Softwood grading is more complex and often tied to construction standards. For furniture, look for “Select” or “Finish” grades for a clear, knot-free board.
3. Inspect Each Board for Defects
Take the time to examine every piece of lumber you’re considering.
- Warping and Cupping: Look down the length of the board. It should be straight and flat. Avoid boards that are bowed, cupped (curved across the width), or twisted.
- Knots: Knots are where branches grew. While they can add character, they are also a weak point and can be very difficult to work around.
- Cracks and Splits: Check the ends of the boards, as they are most prone to cracking.
4. Consider How the Wood Was Cut
The way a board is milled from the log affects its stability and appearance.
- Plainsawn (or Flatsawn): The most common and least expensive cut. It produces a “cathedral” grain pattern and is prone to cupping.
- Quartersawn: Cut with the growth rings at a 90-degree angle to the face. This produces a very straight, stable board with a beautiful “ray fleck” pattern, especially in Oak. It’s more expensive but is the most stable cut.
- Riftsawn: Cut at a 45-degree angle to the growth rings, resulting in a straight grain pattern with no “flecks.” It’s very stable and also more expensive.
5. Understand Moisture Content
Wood is a living material that absorbs and releases moisture.
- Kiln-Dried vs. Air-Dried: Most lumber is kiln-dried to a stable moisture content (6-8%) suitable for indoor projects. Big box store lumber can sometimes have a higher moisture content, making it prone to warping.
- Acclimation: Always allow new lumber to acclimate to your shop’s environment for a few weeks before you begin cutting. This gives the wood time to expand or contract, preventing future problems.
FAQs on Hardwoods vs. Softwoods
Q: What is the Janka Hardness Scale?
A: The Janka scale is a standard measurement of wood hardness. It measures the force required to embed a steel ball halfway into a piece of wood. The higher the number, the harder the wood. It’s a key metric for determining a wood’s suitability for high-traffic areas like flooring or tabletops.
Q: Can I mix hardwood and softwood in the same project?
A: Yes, absolutely. It’s a common practice. Many cabinetmakers use hardwood for the face frames and doors (for durability and looks) and use softwood (or plywood) for the internal boxes and frames (for cost and ease of use).
Q: Why does wood from a big box store seem to warp more often?
A: Big box stores often sell lumber with a higher moisture content, as it is primarily intended for construction framing where straightness isn’t as critical. This wood will dry out and move as it acclimates to your workshop’s indoor environment. Lumber from a dedicated lumberyard is more likely to be kiln-dried to a woodworking standard, making it much more stable.
Q: How do I know if a piece of wood will be difficult to stain?
A: Woods like Pine, Maple, and Poplar are known to absorb stain unevenly, leading to a blotchy appearance. To prevent this, you can use a pre-stain wood conditioner. This helps the wood absorb the stain more uniformly, giving you a better result.
Q: What is a “figured” grain?
A: A figured grain is an unusual and often beautiful pattern in wood that is not found in standard straight-grained lumber. It is caused by irregular growth and can include patterns like “curly,” “quilted,” “bird’s eye,” or “flame.” These woods are highly prized for their unique aesthetic and are typically more expensive.
Q: Why is quartersawn wood more expensive?
A: Quartersawn lumber is more costly because it requires a more complicated and labor-intensive milling process. This process yields less usable lumber from a log compared to a plainsawn cut, driving up the price. However, its stability and unique appearance often justify the higher cost for fine woodworking.
