
For a lot of people, a jigsaw looks like a little saw you use to cut simple shapes. And while it’s great for that, its true power lies in its ability to make intricate, curved cuts with remarkable precision. It’s the go-to tool for everything from creating a custom cabinet curve to cutting a sink hole in a countertop.
If you’ve been a little intimidated by this tool, don’t worry. Using a jigsaw is easier than you think. This guide will walk you through the basics, from choosing the right blade to making your first perfect cut, so you can start creating those elegant, curved designs you’ve been dreaming of.
Jigsaw 101: Understanding the Basics
A jigsaw is a handheld power saw with a thin, small blade that moves in a rapid up-and-down motion. The motor is contained in a plastic body with a handle, a trigger, and a flat base, or “shoe.”
Unlike a circular saw, which is built for straight-line cutting, the jigsaw’s narrow blade is designed to navigate tight turns and complex patterns.
Step 1: Choosing the Right Blade (This is the Most Important Part!)
A jigsaw is only as good as its blade. Using the wrong blade is the number one reason people get bad results. Blades come in a wide variety of types, but for woodworking, you’ll mainly care about three things:
- Blade Material:
- High Carbon Steel (HCS): Best for wood, plastic, and soft materials. It’s flexible and relatively inexpensive.
- High-Speed Steel (HSS): Better for cutting metal, but can also work on some hardwoods.
- Bi-Metal (BIM): A combination of HCS and HSS. It’s more durable, lasts longer, and is great for cutting through wood with embedded nails.
- Teeth Per Inch (TPI): This determines how clean your cut is.
- Low TPI (6-10 TPI): These blades have bigger teeth and are for fast, rough cuts in thick wood. They’re what you’d use for framing or a demolition project.
- High TPI (14-24 TPI): These blades have small, fine teeth. They cut much slower, but they give you a very clean, smooth finish with minimal tear-out. These are what you’ll use for fine furniture or finish work.
- Blade Shank:
- T-Shank: This is the modern standard. It clips into the tool without a screw or bolt, making blade changes tool-free and lightning-fast.
- U-Shank: The older style. It requires a small screw to be tightened to hold the blade in place. Unless you have a very old jigsaw, you’ll likely be using a T-Shank blade.
My advice: For general woodworking, always have a supply of both a low-TPI blade for rough cuts and a high-TPI blade for detailed work.
Step 2: Safety First (Never Skip This!)
A jigsaw is relatively safe, but it still spins and cuts at high speed. A few simple rules will keep you safe and your project intact.
- Eye and Ear Protection: Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection. The tool is loud, and chips can fly.
- Secure Your Workpiece: Always clamp your wood firmly to a workbench. Never hold it in your hand.
- Let the Blade Stop: Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before you lift the jigsaw off the wood. This prevents the blade from skipping and damaging your workpiece.
- The “Rule of the Shoe”: The flat shoe (the base of the saw) must be resting flat on the wood at all times. This prevents the blade from bending or breaking and ensures a straight, clean cut.
Step 3: Making a Cut (Step-by-Step)
Let’s walk through a simple curved cut on a piece of scrap wood.
- Mark Your Line: Use a pencil to draw the curve you want to cut on your piece of wood.
- Choose Your Blade: If your curve is tight, use a fine, narrow blade. If it’s a gentle curve on thick wood, a wider, low-TPI blade will be fine.
- Clamp the Wood: Clamp the wood to your workbench, making sure the area you’re cutting is hanging over the edge so the blade has a place to go.
- Start the Saw: Place the jigsaw’s shoe flat on the wood, away from the cut line. Turn the saw on and let it get up to full speed.
- Begin the Cut: Gently guide the blade into the wood along your marked line. Don’t force the saw! Let the blade do the work. If you force it, the blade will bend, and you’ll get a curved cut.
- Navigate the Curve: As you approach the curve, slowly guide the saw around the bend. Take your time and keep your eyes on the cut line.
- Complete the Cut: Once you’re done, let the saw’s blade come to a complete stop before you lift it off the workpiece.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
- The Blade is Bending and My Cut Isn’t Straight: This is usually a sign you’re pushing the saw too hard. Slow down and let the blade cut at its own pace.
- Tear-Out (Ugly Splintering): This happens on the top of the wood. To prevent it, either use a high-TPI, fine-tooth blade, or you can apply a piece of masking tape over your cut line before you start. The tape will hold the wood fibers down and prevent splintering.
- The Blade is Burning the Wood: This happens when you’re cutting too slowly. You need to keep a steady pace to prevent heat from building up.
Advanced Jigsaw Techniques
Once you’re comfortable with the basics, you can try these advanced techniques:
- Bevel Cuts: Most jigsaws allow you to adjust the shoe to an angle (usually up to 45 degrees) to make beveled cuts for furniture or frames.
- Plunge Cuts: This is when you start a cut in the middle of a board without drilling a pilot hole. You rest the saw on the front edge of its shoe, turn it on, and then slowly “plunge” the blade down into the wood until the shoe is flat. This is a great way to make a sink cut-out in a countertop.
Final Thoughts: The Router’s Perfect Partner
A jigsaw is an essential tool for any woodworker who wants to move beyond straight lines. Its ability to create curves, holes, and intricate shapes makes it an indispensable tool for everything from furniture to crafts.
Practice on some scrap wood, get a feel for the tool, and you’ll quickly see that the only limit is your imagination.
Check our review on 10 Best Cordless Jigsaws for Detailed Woodcuts (2025 Reviews & Buying Guide)