When you first see a router, it can look a little intimidating. It’s loud, it spins at incredible speeds, and it has a reputation for being a tool for complex, detailed work. But here’s the secret: a router is actually one of the most versatile and essential tools in a woodworker’s shop. Once you learn how to use it, you’ll wonder how you ever got by without one.
This guide is for anyone who’s ever been afraid to plug in a router. We’ll break down the basics, cover the essential safety rules, and walk through some simple projects so you can start using this amazing tool with confidence.
What Exactly Is a Router?
At its core, it is a handheld power tool with a spinning cutter, or router bit. It’s designed to hollow out or shape the edge of a piece of wood. It can do everything from carving a groove (a dado) for a bookshelf to adding a decorative, rounded edge to a tabletop.
There are two main types you’ll encounter:
- Fixed-Base Router: This is the most common type. The depth of the cut is set and locked in place before you start. It’s perfect for edge work and simple grooves.
- Plunge Router: This router’s body can move up and down on a spring-loaded base. This allows you to “plunge” the bit down into the middle of a board to start a cut. It’s a must-have for cutting mortises or making decorative inlays.
For most beginners, a fixed-base router is the perfect place to start. Many routers today even come with interchangeable bases.
Step 1: Safety First (Seriously, It’s Crucial)
A router spins at 20,000 RPM or more. That’s a serious amount of power. Before you do anything else, commit these safety rules to memory.
- Eye and Ear Protection: Always, always wear safety glasses. The router will throw chips and dust at high speed. And wear hearing protection; the tool is loud enough to cause permanent damage.
- Unplug When Changing Bits: This is the most important rule. Never change a router bit, adjust its depth, or perform maintenance without the tool being unplugged. It takes just one accidental bump of the switch for disaster to strike.
- Secure Your Workpiece: Never attempt to rout a piece of wood that isn’t clamped down firmly. It can grab and “kick back” the workpiece, which is dangerous. Use clamps, a bench vise, or a non-slip pad.
- Keep Both Hands on the Tool: Always hold the router firmly with both hands while it is running.
- Direction of Cut: Always feed the router into the wood from left to right. This is called climb cutting, and it ensures the router spins against the wood’s rotation, giving you more control and a cleaner cut.
Step 2: Understanding Router Bits
Think of the bits as the “blades” of the router. Each one is designed for a specific task. For a beginner, you really only need to know a few common types:
- Straight Bit: This is the most basic bit. It cuts a straight groove or slot. Great for cutting dados for shelves.
- Roundover Bit: This bit softens a sharp edge by giving it a smooth, rounded profile. It’s the go-to for furniture and table edges.
- Chamfer Bit: This bit cuts a 45-degree bevel on an edge. It’s a clean and modern look.
- Flush Trim Bit: This bit is used to trim a piece of wood flush with a template. It’s perfect for duplicating a part.
Step 3: The Basic Process – Your First Router Cut
Let’s walk through a simple project: rounding the edge of a piece of scrap wood using a roundover bit.
- Install the Bit: Make sure it is unplugged! Insert the bit into the collet (the part that holds the bit) and tighten it firmly with the two wrenches that came with the router. Tip: Don’t bottom out the bit in the collet; pull it out about 1/8″ before tightening.
- Set the Depth: Loosen the depth lock and set the bit so that it will cut to your desired depth. For a roundover bit, you want the bearing at the bottom of the bit to ride along the edge of the wood. Lock the depth.
- Secure the Wood: Clamp your piece of wood firmly to a workbench. Make sure it’s stable and won’t move.
- Practice on Scrap: Never go straight to your final piece. Take a piece of scrap wood and practice. This is how you get a feel for the tool.
- Start the Cut: Rest the router on the wood, away from the edge. Turn it on and let the motor get up to full speed. Then, slowly and steadily move the router along the edge from left to right.
- Maintain a Steady Speed: Don’t stop or hesitate, and don’t go too fast. A steady, consistent pace is key to a smooth, clean cut.
- Turn Off & Unplug: Once you’re done, turn off the router and wait for the bit to stop spinning before you touch the wood or the tool.
Common Beginner Projects You Can Do with a Router
Once you master a simple edge, you can start using your router for a ton of projects:
- Dadoes and Grooves: Cut channels for shelves to sit in on a bookshelf.
- Roundovers: Soften the sharp edges of tables, cutting boards, or picture frames.
- Chamfers: Create a simple, clean decorative edge.
- Template Routing: Use a flush trim bit to perfectly duplicate a part from a template you’ve already made.
Troubleshooting: What Went Wrong?
- Tear-Out: The wood fibers are tearing and splintering as you cut. This usually happens when you’re moving too fast or your router bit is dull. Go slower and consider a new bit.
- Burning: You’ll see a dark, burnt mark along your cut line. This happens when the router bit is dull or you’re moving too slowly. The friction creates heat, which burns the wood.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: What is the difference between a fixed-base and a plunge router?
A: A fixed-base router has a set cutting depth that you lock in place before you start. It’s ideal for edge work and simple grooves. A plunge router allows the motor to be “plunged” down into the wood while the tool is running, which is perfect for cutting a stopped groove, mortise, or starting a cut in the middle of a board. For a beginner, a fixed-base router is a great place to start, but many modern routers come with both bases.
Q: What causes burning on the wood when I use a router?
A: Burning is usually caused by friction, which happens when the router bit is either dull or you are moving too slowly. If you let the router sit in one spot or move at a slow, hesitant pace, the friction will scorch the wood. To prevent burning, use a sharp bit and move the router at a steady, consistent speed. Making a cut in two or three shallow passes instead of one deep pass can also help.
Q: Why do I get a lot of splintering or “tear-out”?
A: Tear-out happens when the bit rips wood fibers as it exits the material. The two main causes are using a dull bit or taking a single, deep cut. To prevent it, always use a sharp bit, make shallow cuts (especially on hardwood), and consider using a backer board. A backer board is a piece of scrap wood clamped to the exit side of your cut; the bit will exit into the scrap, preventing the wood from splintering.
Q: Can I use a router for straight lines, or is it just for curves?
A: A router excels at both! While its primary use is for shaped edges and grooves, it can cut perfectly straight lines with the use of a guide. Most routers come with a straight-edge guide that attaches to the base, or you can simply clamp a straight board to your workpiece and run the router along the edge to ensure a straight cut.
Q: What’s the best way to make a deep cut with a router?
A: Never try to make a deep cut in a single pass. This puts a huge strain on the router and is a major safety risk. The best practice is to make multiple shallow passes, raising the bit by about 1/4 inch with each pass until you reach your desired depth. This gives you more control, prevents burning, and reduces the risk of kickback.
Q: How do I avoid “kickback” when routing?
A: Kickback is when the router grabs the wood and lurches unexpectedly. To avoid it, always feed the router in the correct direction (from left to right when routing an outside edge) and keep both hands firmly on the tool. Also, make sure your router bit is sharp, and your workpiece is securely clamped to the bench.
Q: How do I know which router bit to use?
A: The bit you choose depends entirely on the cut you want to make. Straight bits cut straight grooves, roundover bits soften edges, and chamfer bits create a beveled edge. When you’re first starting, a small set of the most common bits will allow you to tackle a wide range of projects. Always choose a bit with a shank size that matches your router’s collet (usually 1/4″ or 1/2″).
Q: Can a router be used for joinery?
A: Yes! This is an incredibly versatile tool for joinery. With the right bits and a simple jig, you can cut mortises and tenons, create half-laps, and even make dovetails. Many woodworkers prefer a router for joinery because it is fast and accurate once you learn the proper techniques.
Q: How do I change a router bit safely?
A: First and foremost, always unplug the router before changing the bit! This is the most critical safety rule. Use the two wrenches that came with your router to loosen the collet nut. Once the old bit is out, insert the new bit into the collet, push it down, and then pull it up about 1/8 of an inch before tightening it. This prevents the bit from bottoming out and allows for a more secure grip.
Q: Do I need a variable speed router?
A: While not essential for a beginner, a variable-speed router is a great feature to have. Slower speeds (around 10,000-15,000 RPM) are ideal for large-diameter bits and harder materials, as they reduce heat and prevent burning. Higher speeds (20,000-25,000 RPM) are best for smaller bits and softer woods. If you plan on using a wide variety of bits, a variable speed router is a worthwhile investment.
Final Thoughts: Don’t Be Afraid to Start
Using a router for the first time can feel intimidating, but it’s a tool that will open up a whole new world of woodworking possibilities. Start with a simple project on a piece of scrap, and you’ll quickly see what an amazing and versatile tool it is.
With a little practice and a commitment to safety, you’ll be cutting clean, professional-looking joints and edges in no time.
